A Brush With Tuscany

Florence is timeless. The Italians have the perfect word to describe it... "insieme". Translated it means: ensemble, whole, all together. It's no wonder that Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance. Dante Alighieri, the father of the modern, Italian language was born here.

Etched into the cathedrals and ancient alleys are the voices of the past and present. Florence offers a movable feast for the eyes and the tongue, with a gelateria on nearly every corner. The city is a mecca for students with hundreds of international universities. 

I made a pilgrimage of my own to the Florence Academy, which is located along the Arno River. Founded by artist Daniel Graves, the Academy teaches drawing, painting and sculpture modeled on 19th century, classical traditions. Yes, Florence is an "all together" kind of place and the reason why I chose to teach a painting workshop in nearby Fiesole this June. 

 

If Florence is the cultural heart of Tuscany, Fiesole is the soul. I chose this location as our base for its beauty and serenity. The first recorded mention of the town dates to 283 BC, when known as Faesulae, it was conquered by the Romans. Why it was built here, is a really great story. Legend has it that the Greek god, Atlas founded Fiesole as the most beautiful, earthly location. It's name means "stands alone". It was Atlas’ son Italus who gave his name to Italy.

Pensione Bencista is a 14th century villa, perched on the hillside of Fiesole, offering sweeping views of Florence. There is an austere, old fashioned charm to the place with its simple breakfast, spartan rooms and resident dogs. 

The Swiss, Symbolist painter Arnold Bocklin once lived here and guests are greeted by a large bust of the artist in the foyer. The Villa is the perfect place to enjoy "dolce far niente"... the sweetness of doing nothing. Sheer indulgent relaxation and blissful laziness would be lovely except there are paintings to be painted!

The day before the workshop began, a few of us ventured off to find the Villa Palmerino, located just below the Bencista. As it turned out our timing was perfect. We were graciously treated to a tour by it’s current owner, Federico Parretti. The Villa has been in this family of artists for five generations.

It is here that John Singer Sargent painted the portrait of English poet, Violet Paget (Vernon Lee). Lee purchased the villa in 1889 where she regularly hosted such literati as Edith Wharton and Henry James, among others. When Paget died in 1935, artist Federigo Angeli, and his wife, painter and writer Carola Costa purchased the property. Their grandchildren, host and promote artistic events in the artistic community and at the Villa.

Our first afternoon began with a wonderful tour of the Etruscan ruins which date from the ancient roots of the region. Our tour guide was so amusing and informative. We joked that if not for the use of her hands she would've been rendered speechless! The view from the monastery of San Francesco on the crest of the hill is worth the trek. Although history surrounds you, Fiesole is not a preserved artifact of the past. It’s a modern Italian town with beautiful villas, delightful cafes and interesting shops.

Our workshop began on the terrace of the villa. We focused on making small, greyscale studies in an effort to understand the underlying composition. I stressed the need to avoid detail and line, instead massing in flat, abstract shapes of correct value. 

I showed how to mix clean color by painting a series of small studies. This practice helps to unify your paintings. Relating the major masses in terms of color and value  creates a forceful statement of color harmony, and helps to organize major planes of light. 

The ever changing light on the sweeping views below our villa, allowed for a variety of scenes. Here are things to keep in mind when painting atmospheric scenes:

1. Keep the value range limited to no more than 4 steps.

2. Since values are closer together, tonal value is less important than color. Consider the temperature of your light source, and push the opposite temperature in the shadows.

3. Make edges soft. Heavy, moisture-laden air, or veils of atmosphere, blurs the edges making everything appear soft, even in the focal point.

The next day we took the #7 bus down the hill into Florence for a morning of sketching at the Bargello Museum. This may not be the most famous museum, but it is one of my favorites. Less crowded than the Uffizi, the Bargello is one of the oldest buildings in Florence, dating back to 1255. Today, it houses hundreds of sculptures. Donatello's bronze David is physically delicate and remarkably effeminate. Visually, it is a stark contrast to Michelangelo’s heroic, marble of David.

There were two more days of painting on the Piazza Mino in Fiesole. We enjoyed long lunches at the great cafes. There is something to be said for those leisurely breaks that Europeans take at midday. I found that given the lateness of our evenings - it was imperative to nap after lunch. 

Joan, our tour organizer found some of the most enchanting places for dinner. I loved Le Cave di Maiano with it’s rustic menu, or Tullio a Montebeni with it’s tuscan steak and colorful proprietor. Both were tucked away in the surrounding forest, just minutes from our villa.

It’s midnight and a few of us have snuck outside to share a bottle of proseco on the terrace of the villa. Florence twinkles below like a blanket of earthly stars. Suddenly the chirping of a cell phone (who’s owner shall remain anonymous) breaks the quietude followed by a harsh admonishment from the proprietor Beatrice! In hushed tones we go back to our conversation, savoring every moment of our last night in paradise. 

A painting workshop is about finding enlightenment, learning new skills and making new friends. And although every adventure must come to an end, there’s always the next one to look forward to! 

Here’s what some participants had to say about "A Brush with Tuscany" Workshop:

Now that I'm back home, I just wanted to tell you I had the most wonderful time at your workshop. Not only are you full of knowledge with the unique ability to put it into words, full of talent and great ideas, but you are also a delight to be with! What a great trip! Sheila W.

Eli, a quick thank you for a great workshop week. Lots of fun and I learned a ton. Met some interesting people as well. Thanks for your patience and encouragement. Bob S.

I want to thank you all for joining us in Fiesole. You were a great group of people who got along so well, which doesn’t always happen!  Eli is the best teacher I’ve ever done a painting class with; I was stunned at her knowledge, clarity and teaching skills, all in that very casual, Eli-manner.  Joan Hill, Artful Journeys

Diary of vagabond artist...

"There are three kinds of people: those who see, those that see what you show them and those who do not see" - Leonardo Da Vinci

The adventure begins with an artist residency in Palm Beach. I left behind mountains of snow in Boston so palm trees and sandy beaches were a welcome site. Dropping my bags, I head out to explore and do a few small oil sketches. The sun is low in the sky and as the clouds start to roll in, it makes for a moodier  scene than I'd originally intended. I pack it in and head to the huge Art & Antique Show at the Palm Beach Convention Center. (more on that in my next blog)

The following day, sunlight greets me, and I head to Delray where I enter the world of COLOR – orange brick walls, purple cast shadows. I set up quickly and knock out my second oil sketch of a brightly colored, surf shop. There is no better way to arouse the senses than through travel. It offers an increasingly vast series of landscapes; lively cafes, a stretch of beach, stunning sunsets, gardens and architecture. It’s always an awe-inspiring and enriching experience.

Here's my block-in for Surf Shop.

Surf Shop, Delray Beach

Society of the 4 Arts, Palm Beach

It’s often said that technology is making the world smaller. Nowhere is this truer than in the community of artists. By simply reaching out through social media I have widened my circle to include; painters, sculptors, educators, students and patrons, many of whom have become friends. A huge thank you to my wonderful hosts… Peter & Manon Sander (http://www.manonsander.com) and Steve & Pati McGuire (http://www.patimaguire.com). Which leads me to the second half of my adventure...

Delray participants

It’s Thursday morning and I’m preparing to teach my first workshop at the Old School Center for the Arts in Delray Beach. We began with a series of gesture sketches and then move outdoors for the quick figure study in oil. The weather could not have been better for an outdoor session. I was excited to work with such a talented group of painters. Everyone did a great job and we covered an overwhelming amount of information in two short days. 

Our talented model, Randy Orwig

My second workshop was at the Lighthouse Center in Tequesta with another talented group of seasoned artists. The class was held in the gallery which as fate would have it, was hosting The Manoogian Collection. Considered to be one of the most significant private collections of 19th and 20th-century American paintings. Having these works on view during my workshop was an inspiring and invaluable tool for instruction.

Lighthouse Art Center participants

Manon's "surprisingly" good painting!

I was given permission to copy one of the paintings in the collection titled "Hush Do Not Disturb Them" by Hamilton Hamilton. The painting depicts a voyeuristic view of two children in the shade of a large boulder on a quiet beach. Copying a masterwork can be very instructive; Although my format was different, I was sensitive to the subtleties of temperature shifts from violet to yellow and the variety of beautiful tones of grey throughout the painting.

My copy of Hush, 10x12

One of the highlights of my time in Florida was my participation in the 2nd Annual Plein Funfest in Delray Beach. Fifty artists from around the country were juried in and competed for cash prizes on February 20th. We had 6 hours to paint and because it was overcast I chose a a cafe scene on a busy corner because of the tiny lights illuminating the figures inside. The paintings were on display that afternoon at the Old Square Center for the Arts. I was honored and pleased to have won an Award of Excellence. It was a picture perfect day in a picture perfect city!

My winning entry, The Fat Rooster, 11x14

If this is Tuesday it must be Miami… I had a few days off from teaching I so drove to Miami Beach to visit with friends from my Gloucester residency in 2015. We attended the Art Wynwood Exhibition which was a mind-blowing experience. I loved Wynwood Walls where the people watching was as fascinating as the graffiti-covered buildings.

Just down the road from where I was staying lives Dan Peterson, a renowned sculptor who just happened to be unveiling a new work that day. This large scale sculpture sits on his front lawn was created in collaboration with his wife Christina who is a talented painter.

"Conga" 2016 by Dan Peterson

Once again I hit the road and made the two hour trek across Alligator Alley to Naples to catch up with family and friends. I spent an afternoon with Nancy Smythe whom I'd met last November at the Bermuda Arts Festival. We had a great time visiting art festivals and galleries. Welcome to the world of the vagabond, I highly recommend it!

I'll be teaching a week-long workshop at the Bonita Springs Center for the Arts, March 19-25, 2017. I'll also be offering new workshops in Delray Beach and Jupiter next winter. Visit my website for more info at www.elicedrone.com. 

Nancy Smythe and I show off our new hats.